Tag Archives: 1940s

Decades of Desire

I now know the best way to get the presents you desire and that’s to write a post about them. Oh yes, some of those lovely 10 Best Books found their way into my stocking this year and I am one happy gal!

Now I’m not favouring one present over another, but I have to say Decades by Cameron Silver, which my cousin’s in law gave me, had me, (rather unfortunately for my family), totally mesmerised on Boxing Day.

The pictures are gorgeous. But the story of how this young cabaret singer who randomly started to collect vintage fashion, established a prestigious vintage store and essentially waited for the vintage trend to unfold, is totally fascinating. Needless to say Cameron Silver now dresses Oscar tipped celebrities.

So I guess you would like a sneak peek?

Decades by Cameron Silver,, Camille Clifford, Gibson Girl

Camille Clifford 1905, Gibson Girl

Decades by Cameron Silver, Gustav Klimt, Portrait of Johanna Staude

Gustav Klimt 1918, Portrait of Johanna Staude

Decades by Cameron Silver, Chanel Dress 1924

1924 Dress by Chanel

Decades by Cameron Silver, 1930

1930s

Decades by Cameron Silver, Frida Kahlo by Nickolas Muray

Frida Kahlo by Nickolas Muray 1938

Decades by Cameron Silver, Red scarf by Clare McCardell

Red Scarf by Clare McCardell 1946

Decades by Cameron Silver, Grace Kelly, To Catch a Thief

Grace Kelly, To Catch a Thief, 1955

Decades by Cameron Silver, Monica Vitti 1965

Monica Vitti 1965

Decades by Cameron Silver, Bianca Jagger, yellow kaftan, Zandra Rhodes

Bianca Jagger in Zandra Rhodes

Decades by Cameron Silver,

1980′s gets edgy! Loving those canary yellow knickers!

Now you know why I was rather uncommunicative!

Igetakickoutofyou 10 Best Books for Christmas

I’ve seen so many books I want to get for Christmas that I’ve started making a list. Which has now turned into a post!

And if your loved ones are anything like me then these are sure to please on Christmas Day.

I’ve even added them to my Amazon affiliate store, so you can buy them straight from the links below:

My problem is I want ALL of them!

20121204-205053.jpg

Dressed to Kill, Jazz Age Fashion by Virginia & Daisy Bates

Decades, A Century of Fashion by Cameron Silver20121204-205145.jpg

Hollywood Sketchbook by Deborah Nadoolman Landis

Sieff Fashion 1960 – 2000

20121204-205227.jpgThe Essential Cecil Beaton 1920 – 1970

Coming into Fashion: A Century of Photography at Condé Nast

20121204-205249.jpgMaster Photographers

Muses, Women Who Inspire

Happy Shopping! Cx

All I Want For Christmas Is You

Apologies for the lack of posts recently. It’s a busy time!

I’ve spent the last couple of weeks sewing marabou feathers onto corsets and making red santa capes with extra strong velcro!

The reason?

We got festive this week, as The Pushettes (although this time only three) performed a burlesque gig, in Dulwich, for The Reliant Magazine Christmas Do.

Needless to say I have now developed an allergy to marabou feathers and my fingers are black and blue from driving needles through extremely tough velcro.

20121204-092908.jpg, The Pushettes, Carolyn Everitt, Amanda Botterill, Linda Davidson

I must admit I was a little apprehensive about the costumes. After trawling the internet for Santa outfits all I could find were some rather trashy velour numbers and trashy was not the look we were going for. More………

Christmas pin up

Christmas pin up

Christmas Pin Up

So we ordered some fabulous red corsets from Corsets UK and sewed marabou feathers around the lace and I made some capes so we could do a little “reveal” when we entered the stage – hence the velcro!

Even when the tulle skirts arrived, I still thought this could go horribly wrong. However, all dressed up, I’m glad and relieved to say “cute” was definitely the adjective of the evening.

We did the routine to the Puppini sisters “All I want for Christmas is you”. So it was a sort of 1940′s cheeky number rather than one of our more risque Moulin Rouge numbers, so it all came together nicely.

As always we has a blast – I just wish we were a bit more organised in getting the routine filmed and decent photos taken.

Still, there’s always next time.

Thank you David and Donnie for asking us to participate. Hope you had a successful evening and raised loads of money for King’s College Hospital.

So, to finish, here’s the Puppini Sisters doing a live version – so you get a little taster of what it was all about:

The Vintage Pinks

In August 1996 Vogue ran an article entitled “Does your house suit you?” Plum Sykes interviewed women whose homes reflected their whole style ethos.

One of these women was Yvonne Spore, a stylist, whose plaster pink walls enthralled my 17-year-old mind so much so, that I still have the article.

Believe it or not there weren’t even many images in the article other than the one below. But the description blew my mind.

Vogue 1996, Yvonne Spore, Plum Sykes

What just happened was this: she knocked out the interior of a suburban house, raised the roof, left the newly plastered walls their pinkish colour, put down limed-oak floors – “They look like they’ve been washed and washed” – and moved in her two beige cats and extensive wardrobe, the colours of which range from mother of pearl and oyster to cappuccino. She complements the house and the house flatters her style; it’s a créme-caramel experience.

As Lucille Lewin of Whistles says. “Yvonne just is vanilla. Her hair, her clothes – she even smells like vanilla”.

I wanted to be vanilla. I really wanted to be vanilla!

The whole idea of a style permeating through any and every outlet was incredibly appealing – I even bought some vanilla perfume from Body Shop to be just like Yvonne.

I think I may have gone slightly overboard on the whole perfume bit because vanilla now makes me feel slightly nauseous but four houses down the line, those plaster pink walls are still with me.

I can’t actually say that I have ever gone as far as to leave my walls unpainted (although that’s only because my husband would disapprove massively) but I do realise that I have a slight colour obsession, only not with vanilla, I’m vintage pink!

I can spot that slightly dusty salmony pink from a far and I’m hooked.

I can see it in the Zara Wood illustration I just bought, a vintage coat and a slightly saucy pin up pic I found at the vintage fair this weekend, my 1920′s lampshade and my grandmother’s beautiful Edwardian quilt cover – the colour even makes it way into my boards on pinterest.
Nicole, Zara Wood, Woody, fashion illustration

Dusty pink fur collar vintage coat

Pin Up Dusty pink fairy

1920s lampshade, dusty pink

vintage edwardian rose print fabric

Vintage pink 1940s style

So if you find anything which says to you vintage pink, send it my way! I’m building an empire.

Vintage Ballet by Serge Lido Part 1

At the weekend I was extremely fortunate to have been given these exquisite vintage ballet books from the 1950′s. Basically two of my greatest passions rolled into one – vintage and dance.

Serge Lido was born in Moscow and became one of the greatest photographers of dance in the twentieth century. Based in Paris he and his wife Irene Lidova travelled Europe creating a magnificent record of contemporary and classical ballet.

Since there are so many images to choose from I think it would be rather rude to do just one post. So watch out for more:

Serge Lido, Annual ballet magazine, photographer, vintage dance photographs

Serge Lido, Annual ballet magazine, photographer, vintage dance photographs

Serge Lido, Annual ballet magazine, photographer, vintage dance photographs

Serge Lido, Annual ballet magazine, photographer, vintage dance photographs

Serge Lido, Annual ballet magazine, photographer, vintage dance photographs

Serge Lido, Annual ballet magazine, photographer, vintage dance photographs

Serge Lido, Annual ballet magazine, photographer, vintage dance photographs

Serge Lido, Annual ballet magazine, photographer, vintage dance photographs

Serge Lido, Annual ballet magazine, photographer, vintage dance photographs

I don’t know about you but the dancers don’t seem to display the fragility that modern day dancers do. Now is that because of the way they’ve been photographed, or because the style at the time leant towards a fuller figure or just a different attitude in dance itself?

I’d be interested to know your thoughts?

Personally, I find it rather refreshing. My favourites are the feathered lady in the third picture and the last one. She looks like my mum in her youth.

Thank you for the books Miranda!

All photographs by Serge Lido 1951.

How can you look so naughty and feel so nice?

I recently bought the book “Lingerie” featuring the beautiful photography of Lillan Bassman.

Bassman became a photographer in the late 1940′s. Her images of women broke the mould, emphasising a more intimate portrayal and establishing a niche in lingerie and night-wear photography.

Lillian Bassman, Black basque, LingerieHarpers Bazaar, March 1954

Lillian Bassman, Carmen Dell'Orefice, white basque

Carmen Dell’Orefice, Merry Widow 1951

Bassman was an avid watcher of women and in the book it describes how, in the mid 1940′s, she began to study the body language of those who made a living out of their sensuousness and were not afraid to show it.

“It was too late to get served at the hotel so I decided to walk down the Avenue. I spotted my corner carefully and then proceeded. It’s strange how similar and how different French girls are (to American girls). In the majority they look like old victory girls of B’way. High pompadours, long hair over their shoulders, skirt at above knee length and heavy high-heeled shoes. It wasn’t too light and I was shy about staring too much, so all I got were quick outlines”

A few days later. she watched the prostitutes make easy pickings of American GIs: “There’s no denying a French girl once she spots you along, it’s done on the streets, in doorways, anywheres. There’s a special drape to the way her body clings to a man and she takes the initiative on all occasions.”

And from there, Bassman embarked on a special relationship with her photography, where women felt comfortable in her company and who thus photographed with an air of effortless self-possession. Warner lingerie subsequently enjoyed a huge rise in sales with their Merry Widow campaign, shot by Bassman and named after the Lana Turner movie – with the tagline How can you look so naughty and feel so nice?”  

This campaign was so successful it continued right up to the early 1960′s.

Lillian Bassman, Merry Widow 1954, Venetian masks, black basque

Lillian Bassman, Merry Widow, Venetian Masks, Black Basque, white tulle skirt

Lillian would often take her models out of the studios, preferring a room with abundant natural light and a more reportage style of work.

Lillian Bassman, woman looking in the mirror, white basque

Corselet by Perma-lift 1956Lillian Bassman, black basque

Betty Biehn 1955Lillian Bassman, bra and pants, lady doing hair

Margie Cato late 1940′sLillian Bassman, smoking on the train, pyjamas

Pyjamas by Kicknernick 1951Lillian Bassman, Under the sheet, white basque

Advertisement for La Roche early 1950′s (my favourite!)Lillian Bassman, Suzy Parker, Nightgown, lingerie

Suzy Parker 1951Lillian Bassman, painting toes, Lingerie

Maidenform 1956Lillian Bassman, white basque, wallpaper, Lingerie

Warner’s advertisement 1957
Lillian Bassman, white basque, Lingerie

Barbara Vaughn early 1950′sLillian Bassman, Gossard Ultrabra 1997

Gossard Ultrabra 1997

Makes you want to go and buy a corset, doesn’t it!

I know they were probably extremely uncomfortable but the corsets with the tulle skirts do look pretty. I showed my husband to get his opinion and he said “I prefer sexy lingerie to pretty lingerie”. Men eh!

I suppose that’s exactly where Bassman differed – she photographed women for women. Personally, I think pretty can be sexy and these are very sexy indeed.

Lililan Bassman in the studio

Lillian died in February of this year. She was 94 and still working. The book Lingerie is a fabulous tribute to a woman who revolutionised women’s photography and the photography of the female form.

I can’t recommend it enough!

The Red Riding Hood Collection

I watched Red Riding Hood the other night and whilst the story was a bit thin on the ground, the costumes and scenery were breathtaking. It’s real woodland fairy tale stuff.

During the week I took a peek at Ulyana Sergeenko’s Fall 2012 collection. As you know I’m a HUGE fan, I love her folksy 1940′s style, always accessorised with little booties.

(If you think the perspex heels look tretcherous just take a look at these – better still, watch the show)

All I can say is Ulyana should have unveiled this collection on the set of Red Riding Hood – because it fits the fairy tale woodland landscape down to the ground. What do you think?

Red RIding Hood Film, setting, grandma's house

Ulyana Sergeenko, Fall 2012, red dress

Ulyana Sergeenko, Fall 2012, black full skirt, mohair jumper and satchel

Red Riding Hood Film, setting

Ulyana Sergeenko, Fall 2012, red print dress

Red Riding Hood film, red hood

Ulyana Sergeenko, Fall 2012, Red print full skirt, grey mohair jumper, satchel

Ulyana Sergeenko, Fall 2012, red print dress

Red RIding Hood, Night Scene

Ulyana Sergeenko, Fall 2012, white fur

Even the wolf gets a look-in!

Ulyana Segeenko, Fall 2012, Fur skirt

and might I add, I have a new favourite accessory – bye-bye booties and hello satchel backpacks…..

Ulyana Sergeenko, Fall 2012, satchel backpacks

The Return of the Perspex Heel

Perspex Heels & Fishnets

I’ve been waiting for an opportunity to showcase the 1941 perspex heeled shoes below, from the book Fashion at the time of Fascisim. They just look so remarkably modern, particularly the wedges, that you really wouldn’t look twice if they appeared in the pages of Vogue.

1940's Perspex Shoes, Italy
1940's perspex wedges

And indeed this month’s Vogue’s Catwalk Guide has given me the perfect opportunity to put these babies back into the limelight. From Yves St Laurent to Chanel to Rodarte, perspex is the material “de rigeur” for Autumn heels.

Perspex Heels, Yves St Laurent, Fall 2012

Perspex heeled boots, Rodarte, Fall 2012

Perspex heels, Chanel, Fall 2012

Perspex heeled boots, Erdem, Fall 2012

Perspex heels, Chanel, Fall 2012When perspex comes to mind my resounding image has to be the Queen of the Galaxy, Barbarella. Designed by Paco Rabanne, there’s no escaping the influence of transparent, highly textured material in these costumes. From head to toe, every outfit found itself bubble wrapped!

Perspex boots, Barbarella, Jane Fonda

I must admit I rather fancy these little booties so maybe a touch of Barbarella would be rather refreshing this autumn. Not sure about the badger outfit though!

Diane Von Furstenberg and the 1940′s Twist

It’s been a busy week. Back from Seville and straight to a wedding on Saturday.

Not any ordinary wedding, you understand. In true Jubilee spirit, one of my best friend’s married her childhood sweetheart at the Guard’s Chapel, off St James’ Park.

If you know London, you’ll understand that it’s just a few metres away from Buckingham Palace, and therefore in the midst of Jubilee festivities. You can just imagine the atmosphere, particularly with the bride arriving in a horse-drawn carriage down Birdcage Walk.

I’m sure there were some very confused tourists wondering if there was another royal wedding going on!

Birdcage Walk, Wedding

So the pressure was on to find something fitting for the occasion and a few weeks ago I got lucky.

I found a little gem. A Diane Von Furstenburg dress, at (you guessed it) a vintage fair.

Originally I thought I would go down the whole 70′s route and make it look quite Halston-esque. But it just didn’t feel right – it’s quite a bold dress – it almost needed toning down.

So I started to think about the cut of the dress and how it reminded me of an “Adrian” dress circa 1945 – particularly with the structured shoulders, drape around the neckline and graduated front skirt.

Add to that Jerry Schatzberg’s beautiful “Backseat Romance” picture, with the veiled black hat and ……POW…my outfit was born.

Diane Von Furstenburg, 1940s dress, Lauren Bacall, Black veiled hat, The Big Sleep

It’s surprising what a hat and a pair of gloves can do. They can transform an outfit from one decade to another.

I was going to finish with a picture of the bride and groom but I figure I should ask them first – so watch this space.

Jo you looked gorgeous and Mr T, dapper as usual, thank you for a totally amazing day – truly unforgettable.

(Picture from left: Adrian Peek A Boo Leaf 1946, Picture of me, David Sims for Vogue Paris June 2012, Backseat Romance  1960 – Jerry Schatzberg “Women Then”, Fashion illustration Jacques Demachy from Drawing Fashion, Picture of me, Fashion illustration by Eric from Drawing Fashion, Picture of me, “Wings of Glory” gowns 1945 by Adrian, Lauren Bacall in The Big Sleep.)

She wears it well

This post started with a bit of pondering over the issue why dress in vintage?

A couple of weeks ago I read a post by The Bright Young Twins asking people’s opinions on why vintage has become so popular. The post itself is great and what is interesting is all the different responses that came back – ranging from choosing vintage because of body shape – to the wasteful nature of society today – to the way in which women want to be perceived and how this has changed. I encourage you to take a look – its fascinating reading.

Bright Young Twins, Aimee & Harriet

Ironically while flicking through one of my 1996 Vogue’s, when the vintage revival was just becoming a major trend, I spotted an article, written by  Lisa Armstrong, asking the same question.

I was 21 at the time and I think my reasons for wearing vintage have changed little to this day and perhaps those arguments still formulate my thinking.

I don’t wear vintage for a love of nostalgia, although there is an element I like about what kind of life the previous person had.

I like the idea that the clothing lived in an era long gone – but I don’t have any desire to go back in time. As Aimee points out in her post ” Do I think that it was a better era to live in? NO! Rationing? Air raids? The constricting social roles of women with 72 hours (1950s average) of house work? My feet are firmly in 2012″. Ditto.

Nor do I feel more ladylike in vintage clothing or ashamedly wear vintage for ethical reasons.

So what is it?

Firstly let’s look at some of my favourite eclectic dressers:

Anouck Lepere, Helena Christensen, Margherita Missoni, Carolina Herrera Jnr, Milla Jovovich, Vanessa Paradis, Eva Fontanelli, vintage , eclectic dressing

Inspirational aren’t they?

……And I’m sure Carrie Bradshaw (Patricia Field) has had some influence along the way. I didn’t always like her outfits but they sure packed a punch.

Carrie Bradshaw vintage fashion

But here I bow to Vogue, who argues the point rather well – take it away Lisa…….

“Every time a picture of a woman in pink or raspberry or jade or lilac or any other colour that can be described as bilge, sludge or slime appears in a magazine my heart leaps. Whenever a piece of clothing that isn’t pared down, austere and so synthetic that a medium warm radiator would ignite it arrives in the office, euphoria sets in.

Ironically, at the precise moment when the technological boffins locked away in their laboratories have perfected he ultimate in mad-made fibres, the mood turns and along comes a new designer like Matthew Williamson (remember this is 1996!) who finds a rapturous audience for ravishing hand-embroidered clothes that look 50 years old. Williamson loathes anything that looks mass-produced, “It’s important the clothes look handmade – that’s what gives them character”, he says, and you can see his point. Rubber may be modern, but applique, broderie anglaise and grosgrain are so much prettier.

Perhaps that’s why the women stealing the show at parties now, aren’t the ones in their clever, streamlined, dawn to dusk trousersuits, but the ones who’ve done something unexpected with Gucci platforms – like partnering them with Forties, Fifties, Sixties and even Seventies cocktail dresses in glowing pastels. The girls who stand out on the streets are the ones who have slipped their severe Helmut Lang jumpers over Thirties petticoats, paired perhaps with a mesh bag, or thrown a beaded, sixties style cardigan or a jumble sale peasant top over their Joseph hipsters.

“What I love is mixing all sorts of periods” says Iris Palmer. “That way you never look exactly the same as everyone else. You need to throw in some new stuff. No one should be able to tell quite where you got any of it from”.

Wearing strategic old pieces is stylish. Electic. Edgy. Knowing…….

Mark Steinberg of Steinberg and Tolkein agrees: “There isn’t a major designer who hasn’t bought from us – Dolce and Gabbana, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Karl Lagerfeld, Yves St Laurent, Galliano, Jil Sander, Anna Sui, Miuccia Prada – and I don’t see anything at all wrong with it. …….The fact that all kinds of women are responding to period pieces shows that we’ve finally broken with uniform status dressing..but in an elegant, intelligent way.”

And for me, that’s what it is, a unique way of dressing. And hey, who’s to argue with elegant, intelligent dressing?

It’s not necessarily the fact that the clothes are vintage, which makes them special, it’s the fact that they are one of a kind – and you can use them as a “tool of self-expression” (as so eloquently put by one of the BYT respondents).

Finally how could we possibly end without a few pics from the lady who spearheaded the 1996 resurgence – where do you start and where do you end with Miss Moss?

In fact, she’s been rather quiet with her vintage lately – come on Kate!

Kate Moss, Vintage

I would love to hear your favourites – in fact I think I am going to set up a new board on Pinterest called Electic Dressers – so I would love to add to it. Let me know your thoughts…..