Category Archives: 1930s

Why Don’t You….watch “The Eye Has to Travel”

I watched the documentary Diana Vreeland – The Eye Has To Travel over the weekend and it is an absolute must-see. I was totally transfixed from beginning to end.

Diana Vreeland

“I was the most hideous thing in the world”, Diana Vreeland told an interviewer in 1977 and perhaps because of this, she became the champion of the eclectic woman and the unconventional beauties of the world.

I won’t spoil her story here, you must definitely watch the film, but she was well known for her “Why Don’t You…” column in Harper’s Bazaar in the late 30′s which involved bizarre suggestions like “Why don’t you twist (your child’s) pigtails round her ears like macaroons!”

As you can imagine as fashion editor for Harper’s Bizarre and then Vogue, she delighted in the extraordinary and her fashion shots are still some of the most talked about. She launched many a face and made a huge impact in developing a more cosmopolitan consciousness in the world of fashion.

So I thought I would just highlight a few of her favourite people so you can get a taste for the film. Do, do watch it – it’s total escapism and a history of fashion all in one …..

Lauren Bacall, Diana Vreeland

The lady who discovered Lauren Bacall

Irving Penn, Geisha, Diana VreelandDiana loved Geisha girls (as pictured by Irving Penn in 1970)

Barbara Steisand, Vogue, Diana Vreeland

Barbara Streisand

Mick Jagger, Diana Vreeland

Mick Jagger photographed by David Bailey 1964

Rouge et Noir, Diaghliev's Ballet Russes, Diana Vreeland 1939

Diaghilev’s Ballet Russes 1939

Maria Callas, Diana Vreeland

Maria Callas

Lauren Hutton, Diana VreelandLauren Hutton

I shall now leave you for a week, as it’s half term here and it will no doubt be chaos….Cx

Decades of Desire

I now know the best way to get the presents you desire and that’s to write a post about them. Oh yes, some of those lovely 10 Best Books found their way into my stocking this year and I am one happy gal!

Now I’m not favouring one present over another, but I have to say Decades by Cameron Silver, which my cousin’s in law gave me, had me, (rather unfortunately for my family), totally mesmerised on Boxing Day.

The pictures are gorgeous. But the story of how this young cabaret singer who randomly started to collect vintage fashion, established a prestigious vintage store and essentially waited for the vintage trend to unfold, is totally fascinating. Needless to say Cameron Silver now dresses Oscar tipped celebrities.

So I guess you would like a sneak peek?

Decades by Cameron Silver,, Camille Clifford, Gibson Girl

Camille Clifford 1905, Gibson Girl

Decades by Cameron Silver, Gustav Klimt, Portrait of Johanna Staude

Gustav Klimt 1918, Portrait of Johanna Staude

Decades by Cameron Silver, Chanel Dress 1924

1924 Dress by Chanel

Decades by Cameron Silver, 1930

1930s

Decades by Cameron Silver, Frida Kahlo by Nickolas Muray

Frida Kahlo by Nickolas Muray 1938

Decades by Cameron Silver, Red scarf by Clare McCardell

Red Scarf by Clare McCardell 1946

Decades by Cameron Silver, Grace Kelly, To Catch a Thief

Grace Kelly, To Catch a Thief, 1955

Decades by Cameron Silver, Monica Vitti 1965

Monica Vitti 1965

Decades by Cameron Silver, Bianca Jagger, yellow kaftan, Zandra Rhodes

Bianca Jagger in Zandra Rhodes

Decades by Cameron Silver,

1980′s gets edgy! Loving those canary yellow knickers!

Now you know why I was rather uncommunicative!

Channelling Chinatown

Mrs Mulwray, Faye Dunaway, ChinatownThere are different layers of rich, and you have to choose which rich she is. She’s the heroine of the film, so you can’t choose to make her a dumpy rich person. She’s also Faye Dunaway. You can choose to make her rather chic. I’ve never seen Babe Paley wear anything but brown, gray, off-white, and black. I assume Faye does the same thing as Mrs Mulwray”.

Anthea Sylbert, Costume Designer for Chinatown 1974 (Dressed by Deborah Nadoolman Landis)

My friend, Emma, picked up this 2006 W magazine for me, on one of her home shoots, and I discovered this wonderful 30′s style photoshoot which is just so reminiscent of the uber- chic, slightly masculine style of Mrs Mulwray in Chinatown, I just had to put the two together:

Michael Thompson, Mrs Mulwray style, Chinatown, W magazine

Michael Thompson, Mrs Mulwray style, Chinatown, W magazine

Michael Thompson, Mrs Mulwray style, Chinatown, W magazine

Michael Thompson, Mrs Mulwray style, Chinatown, W magazine

Michael Thompson, Mrs Mulwray style, Chinatown, W magazine

Michael Thompson, Mrs Mulwray style, Chinatown, W magazine

Michael Thompson, Mrs Mulwray style, Chinatown, W magazine

Photos: Michael Thompson for W Magazine

Vintage Whites

Vintage Whites, Carolyn Everitt, edwardian, 1920's fashion illustration

I’m rather susceptible to white lace dresses, particularly the edwardian types with the bobble edging and crochet details.

In fact you can usually spot me at a vintage fair by the trail I lead from one white outfit to the next. Generally, followed closely by my mum, saying “yes it’s lovely but when would you wear it?”

Well the weather, for the last few days anyway, has been perfect for a white dress – this is when I would wear it ………if I had one.

So, with a little investigation, here are some rather lovely white lace dresses to drool over, introduced by a little inspiration:

Rustic Meets VintageVIntage whites, lace edwardian skirt, lace up boots

Igetakickoutofyou PinterestVintage Whites, bobble edged dress, chloe

Igetakickoutofyou Pinterest20120811-134900.jpg

Vintage Textiles

Purses at the Ready………..
20120811-135019.jpg

Vintage Textiles  $80020120811-135101.jpg

Etsy $20020120811-135135.jpg

Etsy $37520120811-135159.jpg

Etsy $68Vintage Whites, Asos, White lace dress

Asos £100VIntage Whites, Asos, White Lace Dress

Asos £120

Personally, I think the vintage ones have the edge over the more modern versions, but I suppose at least they’re not as fragile or petite.

I absolutely love the second one at Etsy, and pretty reasonable considering the excellent condition and exquisite detail.

Hmmm …..watch this space, I might have to make it mine …..unless you get there first!

The Five Year Rule of the She-Serpent

The Five Year Rule of the She-Serpent, Carolyn Everitt, Erte

My mistress is very sensitive to the clothes she wears. She’s a phenomenon. If she has a lively dress she’s lively, like today. If she has a shy dress she’s shy, like yesterday. And everything changes, everything: she talks in a different way, she’s somebody else.

She’s dressed in sparkling and very close-fitting green scales: the dress ends in a thin sharp tail. From the neckline a kind of snake emerges and continues in spirals twice around her neck, it’s head ending up in Dea’s hair as a headdress.

Massimo Bontempelli, Nostra Dea

Every era has it’s own iconic “kick ass” girl – think Princess Leia or Ripley in Alien. But in the mid twenties to the early thirties this lady had scales and a tail.

As early as 1925, Massimo Bontempelli, the italian fascist modernist poet and writer, describes his protagonist, Dea in a “she serpent dress…who immediately takes on a “thunderbolt glance” and a “voice full of hisses”.

Nostra Dea, She Serpent, Massimo Bontempelli

Set designs for Nostra Dea (Gabriele Mucchi 1925).

Future she-serpent stars, Sandra Ratti and Tatiana Pavlova. (Source: Fashion at the Time of Fascism)

Nostra Dea, She Serpent, Massimo Bontempelli

Sandra Ratti, Excelsior III, She Serpent

Tatiana Pavlova, Massimo Bontempelli

She-Serpent designs were starting to set the fashion world on fire…

She serpent dress, Sandro Radice, Loris Riccio, 1926

(Illustration Loris Riccio 1926, Source: Fashion at the time of Fascism)

…with Erte becoming the “King” of the curved, sensuous and darkly hypnotic form, which featured strongly in his costume design and illustrations.

Erte, The Mystic, taken from Dressed Deborah Nadoolman Landis

Erte, The Mystic, Dressed by Deborah Nadoolman Landis

Erte,

Top illustrations taken from Dressed by Deborah Nadoolman Landis, last illustration from Erte’s Fashion Designs 1918-1932.

The Serpent form found its way into the cinema, into the theatre, and into photography – as demonstrated rather seductively by Josephine Baker, in pearls, coils of gold and a rather cleverly silhouetted fishtail.

Josephine Baker, George Hoyningen- Huene, pearls and hoop earrings

George Hoyningen Huene

The five year rule culminated in 1930, with Kay Johnson as Madam Satan, with her amazing Zeppelin Ball gown, designed by Adrian.

Madam Satan, Adrian, Fashion Illustration, 1930, Dressed by Deborah Nadoolman Landis

The costume of Kay Johnson, as Madame Satan, formfitting in the extreme, leaves Milady bare almost to the waist in front, with elaborate silver sequin scrolling; the back isn’t; and the skirt has two long scrolls over each hip and one over the stomach, while a long skirt with a voluminous train is edged in a series of points embellished in silver sequins, giving the impression of a forked tail with scales. It is beautiful beyond description”. Rosaline Shaffer (writer) 

Madam Satan, Kay Johnson, Zepplin Ball Gown, Adrian, 1930

Madam Satan, Kay Johnson, Adrian, Zepplin Ball Gown, 1930

Source: Dressed by Deborah Nadoolman Landis

And just like that the she-serpent curiously disappeared and her five year rule came to an end. Has there been one since – I can’t think of one? Where did she go?

So, a note to all budding screen writers – vampires have had their day, it’s time for a modern day “kiss ass” she-serpent and there’s five year’s worth of inspiration to wet your appetite.

Skinny Rich Fairies

I found a woman after my own heart at the vintage fair on Sunday. She had this wonderful stall with the most incredibly dressed mannequins. The difference about this stall? The clothes weren’t miniscule, nor torn, nor soiled – they were perfect and detailed in the way you want vintage clothes to be.

Skinny Rich Faires, Hammersmith Vintage Fair

The reason they’re so perfect is because they are recreated. But, you know how sometimes you see recreated vintage and it just doesn’t seem right – I suppose partly because of the mix of today’s and yesterday’s fabrics? Skinny Rich Fairies was spot on.

skinny rich fairies, recreated vintage bodice

skinny rich fairies, cream bodice and lace skirt

I was immediately drawn to this beautiful pair of grey trousers with lace inserts. I didn’t know at the time they were recreated and I was totally perplexed, I just couldn’t place them – 20′s, 70′s? In addition there was a choice of tops to go with them – all equally gorgeous.

Grey silk trousers with lace inserts

Grey silk trousers lace inserts, skinny rich fairies

Grey silk trousers lace inserts, skinny rich fairies

The work is extremely skilled. I’m not sure I could recreate such detail and I breathed a sigh of relief when I found out that the seamstress used to be one of Princess Margaret’s. That’s ok then – I don’t need to get “vintage recreation envy” – this is a professional, way out of my league.

So if you’re looking for something totally unique but with a vintage edge then do check this out or contact them on info@skinnyrichfairies.com – and if you buy the grey pantsuit I shall be very jealous!

1920s chenille fringed jacket, skinny rich fairies

1920s mustard jacket, skinny rich fairies

ruched dress, recreating vintage, skinny rich fairies

I am now going to return to my own vintage recreation or should I say restoration. A beautiful, but very damaged sequin flapper dress, which is taking an age to sew back together. It’s for a shindig on Friday with my fellow burlesque ladies which I’m really looking forward to – at least this time we shall be applauding not performing.

Herr Kettner's Cabaret, London, Burlesque

I can feel a post coming on for next week!

Kate does the 30s

And to inspire some vintage-style dressing this weekend…………Kate, who does the 30′s so well.

Need I say more?

Kate Moss, 1930s style, Lachlan Bailey, Vogue December 2007

Kate Moss, 1930s, Vogue Dec 2007, Lachlan Bailey

Kate Moss, White dress and hat, 1930s style, Lachlan Bailey, Vogue December 2007

Kate Moss, flower print dress and feather boa, 1930s style, Lachlan Bailey, Vogue December 2007

Kate Moss, 1930s pin up, Lachlan Bailey, Vogue December 2007

Kate Moss, beret, green dress, 1930s style, Vogue December 2007, Lachlan Bailey

Kate Moss, Black Dress, 1930s style, Lachlan Bailey, Vogue December 2007

Kate Moss, White Beret, Fringed jacket, 1930s style, Lachlan Bailey, Vogue December 2007.

Well, at least, with the weather being what it is, there is no reason why berets and boas should look out of place this spring!

Have a good weekend – I believe it’s actually going to stop raining.

(All images Lachlan Bailey for Vogue December 2007)

She wears it well

This post started with a bit of pondering over the issue why dress in vintage?

A couple of weeks ago I read a post by The Bright Young Twins asking people’s opinions on why vintage has become so popular. The post itself is great and what is interesting is all the different responses that came back – ranging from choosing vintage because of body shape – to the wasteful nature of society today – to the way in which women want to be perceived and how this has changed. I encourage you to take a look – its fascinating reading.

Bright Young Twins, Aimee & Harriet

Ironically while flicking through one of my 1996 Vogue’s, when the vintage revival was just becoming a major trend, I spotted an article, written by  Lisa Armstrong, asking the same question.

I was 21 at the time and I think my reasons for wearing vintage have changed little to this day and perhaps those arguments still formulate my thinking.

I don’t wear vintage for a love of nostalgia, although there is an element I like about what kind of life the previous person had.

I like the idea that the clothing lived in an era long gone – but I don’t have any desire to go back in time. As Aimee points out in her post ” Do I think that it was a better era to live in? NO! Rationing? Air raids? The constricting social roles of women with 72 hours (1950s average) of house work? My feet are firmly in 2012″. Ditto.

Nor do I feel more ladylike in vintage clothing or ashamedly wear vintage for ethical reasons.

So what is it?

Firstly let’s look at some of my favourite eclectic dressers:

Anouck Lepere, Helena Christensen, Margherita Missoni, Carolina Herrera Jnr, Milla Jovovich, Vanessa Paradis, Eva Fontanelli, vintage , eclectic dressing

Inspirational aren’t they?

……And I’m sure Carrie Bradshaw (Patricia Field) has had some influence along the way. I didn’t always like her outfits but they sure packed a punch.

Carrie Bradshaw vintage fashion

But here I bow to Vogue, who argues the point rather well – take it away Lisa…….

“Every time a picture of a woman in pink or raspberry or jade or lilac or any other colour that can be described as bilge, sludge or slime appears in a magazine my heart leaps. Whenever a piece of clothing that isn’t pared down, austere and so synthetic that a medium warm radiator would ignite it arrives in the office, euphoria sets in.

Ironically, at the precise moment when the technological boffins locked away in their laboratories have perfected he ultimate in mad-made fibres, the mood turns and along comes a new designer like Matthew Williamson (remember this is 1996!) who finds a rapturous audience for ravishing hand-embroidered clothes that look 50 years old. Williamson loathes anything that looks mass-produced, “It’s important the clothes look handmade – that’s what gives them character”, he says, and you can see his point. Rubber may be modern, but applique, broderie anglaise and grosgrain are so much prettier.

Perhaps that’s why the women stealing the show at parties now, aren’t the ones in their clever, streamlined, dawn to dusk trousersuits, but the ones who’ve done something unexpected with Gucci platforms – like partnering them with Forties, Fifties, Sixties and even Seventies cocktail dresses in glowing pastels. The girls who stand out on the streets are the ones who have slipped their severe Helmut Lang jumpers over Thirties petticoats, paired perhaps with a mesh bag, or thrown a beaded, sixties style cardigan or a jumble sale peasant top over their Joseph hipsters.

“What I love is mixing all sorts of periods” says Iris Palmer. “That way you never look exactly the same as everyone else. You need to throw in some new stuff. No one should be able to tell quite where you got any of it from”.

Wearing strategic old pieces is stylish. Electic. Edgy. Knowing…….

Mark Steinberg of Steinberg and Tolkein agrees: “There isn’t a major designer who hasn’t bought from us – Dolce and Gabbana, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Karl Lagerfeld, Yves St Laurent, Galliano, Jil Sander, Anna Sui, Miuccia Prada – and I don’t see anything at all wrong with it. …….The fact that all kinds of women are responding to period pieces shows that we’ve finally broken with uniform status dressing..but in an elegant, intelligent way.”

And for me, that’s what it is, a unique way of dressing. And hey, who’s to argue with elegant, intelligent dressing?

It’s not necessarily the fact that the clothes are vintage, which makes them special, it’s the fact that they are one of a kind – and you can use them as a “tool of self-expression” (as so eloquently put by one of the BYT respondents).

Finally how could we possibly end without a few pics from the lady who spearheaded the 1996 resurgence – where do you start and where do you end with Miss Moss?

In fact, she’s been rather quiet with her vintage lately – come on Kate!

Kate Moss, Vintage

I would love to hear your favourites – in fact I think I am going to set up a new board on Pinterest called Electic Dressers – so I would love to add to it. Let me know your thoughts…..

Hip Shaking 1930′s Style

Carolyn Everitt, 1931 dress

Carolyn Everitt, 1931 dress

Carolyn Everitt, 1931 dress

If you were browsing through this post, not noticing too much of the detail of these shots, like the mini-cab in the background – would you think for a moment that they were vintage?

I hope so, as this was my attempt at a 1931 “Recreating Vintage” for my cousin-in-law’s wedding (the gorgeous one who features in A Dress of Envy).

You might remember I said that I also wanted an Atonement dress.

Well, this was my compromise – a dress with interesting hip detail – very “de rigueur” in 1930.

I managed to track down this 1931 vintage vogue pattern, which unfortunately is now out of print (but I have seen it on Ebay).

Whilst I was at the local market I found this amazing fabric, almost like liquid silver – it was just rolled in a ball at the bottom of the pile…….

Vintage Vogue Pattern 1931

and with a little help from my mum, of course – ta dah…..

1931 Dress collage

The dress ended up a little larger than I anticipated and I did have to do a little magic safety-pinning, at the back, so it didn’t swamp me. But better that way than the other – there’s nothing worse than putting your heart and soul into something only to find the damn thing is busting at the seams.

In retrospect I think this style of dress suits a more boyish figure, particularly in a shiny fabric. There are a few photos where my rear looks like it could take out Manhattan – but it’s just the light, obviously……

Now I have to think about a) another occasion for this dress and b) another wedding that’s coming up, which is going to need something super special, as us ladies will be competing with some rather smart Blue’s & Royals uniforms!

So while I ponder that one, here are some original hip shakers to savour:

1929 Fashion illustration

Anonymous 1929 taken from Art Deco Fashion, The Pepin Press

1930 Fashion Illustration, Kenneth Crouch, Harpers Bazaar

Kenneth Crouch for Harpers Bazaar 1930

Vintage Lending Library, hip detail dress, 1930

Vintage Lending Library 1930

Vintage Lending Library 1930

1930s patterns from the Vintage Lending Library 

The Wicked Woman of the Jazz Age

Every era has an “It” girl.

She isn’t the most beautiful woman in the room, she isn’t the richest woman in the room nor is she the woman with the most glamorous outfit.

She is the one women aspire to. She has more style and ingenuity in her little finger than her circle of friends put together.

She isn’t a slave to fashion but 10 paces ahead – collecting the creative and the unique as she goes.

In the Jazz Age, this lady was Daisy Fellowes, described by Karl Lagerfeld as the “most stylish and wicked woman in fashion”.

Daisy Fellowes, Jazz Age, Cecil Beaton

Daisy was the daughter of Duc Decazes and Isabelle Singer. As heiress to the Singer fortune, she was brought up by her aunt Winnaretta de Polignac, following the suicide of her mother.

Daisy married Prince Jean de Broglie in 1910, whom she had three daughters with, Emmeline, Isabelle and Jacqueline. But it was during her second marriage to the banker Reginald Fellowes that she became the “goddess” of Cafe Society.

Daisy Fellowes

Daisy spent most of her time in Paris, but summered in Venice and frequently visited the US, in her yacht, Sister Ann, with the Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

Daisy Fellowes, Jazz Age, Cecil Beaton

In her book Allure, Diana Vreeland noted, “There’s an awfully chic comment, “somebody said to the devil ” I like your style” – that was Daisy. She had the elegance of the damned. When I speak about her, I’m speaking of those extraordinary eyes, the roundness of her cheeks and the aliveness and glow of the face…that face!”

Daisy Fellowes, Cecil Beaton, Jazz Age

Daisy knew the effect she had around her, as Cecil Beaton put it:

“Daisy Fellowes enjoyed making other women appear foolish, and would wear plain linen dresses when everyone else was dressed to kill. These linen suits, though simple in tailoring and often of identical shape, were ordered in dozens of different colours and complemented by barbaric jewels – handcuffs of emeralds, necklets of Indian stones, or conch shells of diamonds. She even wore jewellery with her beach suits”.

Daisy commissioned Cartier, in 1936, to make her a necklace which was to be called “Tutti Frutti”.

Daisy Fellowes, Tutti Frutti necklace, Cartier

The necklace was designed as ”a flexible collar of rubies, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds set in platinum, with, in the center, a removable clip brooch composed of two huge sapphires. The necklace was almost certainly based on one made in 1935 by Cartier for the Maharajah of Patna, using his own diamonds, emeralds and rubies. Curiously, Daisy Fellowes’s jewel places significant emphasis on sapphires, considered an unlucky stone in the Indian tradition.”

Tutti Frutti necklace, Cartier, Daisy Fellowes

Fashion wise, Daisy played the part as muse and as a major client. Her desire to shock made her the perfect partner in crime for a certain designer called Elsa Schiaparelli – she who enjoyed designing the daring and she who enjoyed wearing the daring.

Daisy Fellowes, Cecil Beaton, Jazz Age

It was indeed Daisy who first wore the Dali inspired “Shoe Hat”, which Dali sketched for Elsa in 1937.

Shoe Hat, Elsa Schiaparelli, Salvador Dali, Daisy Fellowes

It ‘s not too difficult to believe then, that at the age of seventy, Daisy was still commissioning Givenchy to make her a Somali panther coat, shaped like a smock, with a drawstring waist and a panther tail belt, accessorized with gold kid cycling shoes and a necklace of topaz flowers! ( I just wish I had a picture)

Daisy didn’t wear clothes for the sake of wearing clothes. As the Metropolitan Museum of Art puts it. she “was not an acquisitive clotheshorse and was known for wearing the same dress for day and evening. She wore this empire-line dress to at least two official functions: a reception given by the King and Queen of England at the Palais de l’Élysée on July 19, 1938; and the court presentation of her daughter in March 1939.”

Elsa Schiaparelli dress, Daisy Fellowes

Daisy was not only daring in her attitude towards fashion, but also in her attitude to men and relationships. She was claimed to be more than a little predatory and ruthless with other people’s husbands.

Daisy Fellowes, Cecil Beaton, Jazz Age

She was also notorious for her addiction to opium and for her acid tongue. She allegedly once described her own offspring as:  “The eldest is like her father, only more masculine. The second is like me, only without the guts. And the last is by some horrible little man called Lischmann.” 

Caustic comments aside, it is no wonder that Karl Lagerfeld paid the ultimate compliment by photographing his own “daisy shoot” for Harper’s Bazaar, a couple of years ago.

Let the party continue – long live Daisy:

Daisy Fellowes, Karl Lagerfeld, Harpers Bazaar

Daisy Fellowes, Karl Lagerfeld, Harpers Bazaar

Daisy Fellowes, Karl Lagerfeld, Harpers Bazaar

Daisy Fellowes, Karl Lagerfeld, Harpers Bazaar

Daisy Fellowes, Karl Lagerfeld, Harpers Bazaar

Daisy Fellowes, Karl Lagerfeld, Harpers Bazaar

Daisy Fellowes, Karl Lagerfeld, Harpers Bazaar

All photographs, unless otherwise stated, Cecil Beaton.

Text taken from Cafe Society, Socialites, Patrons and Artists 1920 – 1960, Thierry Coudert